Exactly a week ago, on Friday, my friends B. and J.L., with whom I visited the Loire Valley in May 2010, set out on a short gastronomic expedition to the Belgian Gaume region. The Gaume is the most southern part of Belgium and it’s known for its micro-climate. Till about 15 years ago it was the only spot in Belgium to have vineyards.
By 11 the sun was breaking through the clouds.
Friday started overcast, but by the time we got south of the Meuse Valley the sky was beginning to show some patches of blue. We took the motorway, which offered some awesome views of the hills of the Ardennes clad in the most intriguing and amazing autumn colours. I tried to shoot some photos from the back seat of the car, but they don’t do the region justice, so I won’t post them.
La Ferme des Sanglochons near Neufchâteau.
Our first destination was a picturesque tavern near Neufchâteau, where they serve the rare and absolutely exquisite ‘sanglochon’ meat. ‘Sanglochon’ = sanglier + cochon (wild boar + pig). In the old days, when pigs were still allowed to roam the forests for food, a lady pig sometimes ran into a gentleman wild boar, that didn’t always behave in a gentlemanly way (aka hanky-panky). With the well-known result: piglets. However, these little piglets have the most curious colours (a pink torso and striped bottom, or the other way round) and a delicate and yet slightly gamy meat; the perfect meat to produce cured hams, smoked sausages and streaky bacon.
A 19th- early 20th century coal burner and cooking stove.
The tavern has kept all the typical features
of the traditional farmhouse in which is located.
of the traditional farmhouse in which is located.
The former owner of the tavern picked up the old tradition and started breeding ‘sanglochons’ in a controlled environment. The tavern is the main outlet for the meat, and people come from miles around to taste and buy this unique product. The new owner is following his predecessor’s footsteps, and the tavern is very popular with the locals and tourists (like us) on their way south.
We arrived at quarter to twelve. The right time to savour a local aperitif: ‘vin blanc aux fleurs de sureaux’ = elderflower white wine. It was very nice. Next we all opted for the local specialty, an ‘assiette the sanglochons’, a large plate of different cuts of ham and sausages and a slice of pâté served with raw grated white cabbage, celeriac and carrots and a slice of red beet. All meat products are made at the tavern, as we saw later in the small museum that is attached to it. The dish came with a nice vinaigrette (on the side) and a large basket of whole grain bread and farm butter. Mmmmm!!
We arrived at quarter to twelve. The right time to savour a local aperitif: ‘vin blanc aux fleurs de sureaux’ = elderflower white wine. It was very nice. Next we all opted for the local specialty, an ‘assiette the sanglochons’, a large plate of different cuts of ham and sausages and a slice of pâté served with raw grated white cabbage, celeriac and carrots and a slice of red beet. All meat products are made at the tavern, as we saw later in the small museum that is attached to it. The dish came with a nice vinaigrette (on the side) and a large basket of whole grain bread and farm butter. Mmmmm!!
As usual I was too focused on the plate that was put in front of me,
and I forgot the take a photo before 'attacking' it. sorry.
and I forgot the take a photo before 'attacking' it. sorry.
I’ve eaten at this tavern many, many times in the past when my friend – who used to be a salesman – was still working. Today he’s retired and we don’t get out that much anymore. So I was glad to return there with my friends B. and J.L. who really liked the atmosphere and the great food. This was all new to them and they assured me that that will return to savour some more specialties … I secretly hope they will invite me …
5 comments:
i tried to eat my computer screen, it looked so good, even after it was attacked!!!
when are you going to open a resturant of your own?
The hams look delicious!
There's a funny little restaurant between Azay-le-Rideau and Villandry with one of those stoves. The owner is Belgian. We asked about the stove because it is so striking, sort of triangular so you can cook from two sides.
Just one word: 'Heerlijk' :-)
Bob, Be careful, from what I hear computer screens are very hard to digest!
Gaynor, The textures and flavours were excellent and so different from each other.
Susan, This kind of stove is called a 'Flemish stove' or even a 'Leuvense stoof' (after the town of Leuven). I remember my (grand)grandparents cooking on it and sitting on each side of it on cold winter days and evenings.
P.S. What's the name of the restaurant?
N&A, 'Overheerlijk' even :)
Post a Comment