Another booking and more accent stuff

After booking a table at the Lion D’Or in Amboise, I made a second call; this one regarding our lunch on Tuesday. Tuesday is the only day that we’ll venture West of Tours. The main reasons for going that way is the market in Bourgeuil, the village of Candes Saint-Martin, some Saumur Champigny wine tasting (and buying) and – on the way back, a visit of the castle and the gardens of Villandry. 

Why these particular places? 

Bourgeuil: because of the weekly market. I want to pay a visit to the honey lady with whom I have been shopping for the last 12 last. I need some honey for my mother and two bottles of honey vinegar, one spiced with garlic and the other with sage. Excellent for making vinaigrettes. 

Candes Saint-Martin: to admire the to me most beautiful view in the Loire Valley, the confluent of the Loire and the Vienne River. And to pay a visit to my favourite Saint: Saint Martin of Tours. 

Saumur-Champigny: my favourite wine, as you know by now!! 

Villandry: the gardens are an absolute must and I also like to shop in one of the out-buildings where local artists are selling their creations: jewelry, hand-painted silk scarves, trinkets, etc... I also would like to return to the Epicerie Gourmande, a wine bar that also sells teas, goat’s cheese, salami, etc. 

We’ll have a brief stop at Ussé, to make some photos of Sleeping Beauty’s castle and maybe at Langeais if we are not too tired and if my friends are interested. 

We’ll have lunch in Turquant, just up the road from Candes. On the way we can stop at Montsoreau or visit the soap factory of Martin de Candre. I’ve seen all these places before, on several occasions even. So it’ll depend on my friends’ interests if or where we stop.

The restaurant in Turquant is called ‘L’Hélianthe’. I’ve been there on two previous occasions, in 2008 with my friend C. and in 2010 with my friends Béa and Jean-Luc. The place is just great; a troglodyte cave that has been decorated in a simple, yet very attractive and inviting way. Food is delicious and the bill gentle! The restaurant has a tiny outdoor terrace – only three miniscule round tables. When I made my reservation – this time the man didn’t comment on my accent – I insisted on having apéros on the terrace weather permitting.

The inteior of L'Hélianthe, with a nice mezzanine.

The chairs look - and are - rather uncomfortable.
But the food makes up for it!

When we ate at L’Hélianthe in 2010 the terrace furniture was safely tucked away inside, despite the fact that the sun was out and the temperatures were quite pleasant. The reason was obvious though, because some serious renovation work was being done at the Marie across the road (2m wide!). The masons were cutting the white ‘tuffeau’ stones with an electric circular saw, creating a lot of noise and dust. However, at about the same time we arrived, they stopped working and set out to have lunch in a nearby bar. I therefore asked the manager whether it was possible to put one of the small tables and three chairs on the tiny terrace for us to have our aperitif alfresco. The manager was all smiles and very helpful and asked one of the waiters to take care of it. However … and here’s the ‘accent-stuff’ again, he jokingly added: “I guess these good people don’t get much sun in Brussels!”

2010: The 'Mairie' under reconstruction.

I guess the work will be done by now.

I gave him a big smile and said: “That’s why we come to the Loire Valley, to have some.” At the end of our delicious meal the manager bought us a drink! The Touraine is such a great place and the people are kind and have a great sense of humour … especially if you speak the lingo, even – or especially? – when you have a Belgian accent … You should try it!

Bookings

Yesterday, with just one more week to go – how I love the phrase! – it was time to make some bookings. The B&B in Vouvray has been booked in February and a deposit has been paid. 

Beside lunches with friends on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, our programme also includes two lunches in restaurants that I definitely want to go to. The first one is the Lion d’Or at the foot of Amboise castle. We’ve never eaten there in the12 years we visited Amboise, simply because the restaurant looked really old and not very inviting. While preparing this year’s trip I checked the website of the Amboise tourist office and found that the place has changed a lot, with a new interior and a very attractive menu. Comments on Tripadvisor and L’internaute give the restaurant a good to excellent rating, although one or two people complained about the service being slow and one dish being under or over cooked. But because accidents can happen or the chef can have an off day, I decided to ignore these bad comments and book a table at the Lion d’Or on the day of our arrival.

2010: Amboise castle.

The restaurant is in the row of house in the left bottom corner, facing the Loire River.

If I am to judge the restaurant by the tone of the phone call I made to book our table, we are in for a good time. The man on the phone sounded very welcoming. When I told him that I was calling from Belgium and would be in Amboise around 1 p.m. next Sunday, after leaving Brussels at 5 in the morning, he immediately answered by saying that he recognized the accent! This is very common ‘practice’ in France. The French like making fun of our accent. In the ‘early’ years this really upset me and I tended to riposte by saying ‘I would like to hear you speaking Flemish!’ That always used to shut them up, but it didn’t really make me popular. Nowadays I simply smile and say ‘I recognize your accent too!’ First they are startled: ‘I have an accent?’ And then they realize that it’s just a joke. ‘Of course, you have. To us, you French have an accent too!’ And we all have a good laugh about it and the ice is broken. 

The man at the Lion D’Or was no different. He just couldn’t stop laughing. When he asked me for a phone number, I deliberately pronounced 77 as ‘septante sept’ (the Belgian way) instead of 'soixante dix sept' (the French way). This resulted in another salvo of laughter on the other end of the phone. Before hanging up, the man wished us a pleasant and safe journey and said that he was looking forward to seeing us on Sunday! Just hope the food will be as good as the man’s sense of humour! 

More about the second booking I made in my next post.

Long time no see

Last night, an unexpected ring at the doorbell! Unexpected, because on weekday evenings I rarely have visitors who come unannounced. So usually an unexpected caller means bad news or fuss I can do without, especially in the evening when I’m decompressing from a stressful day at work. 

With some reluctance I picked up the speaker phone: “Hallo?”  

A cheery voice on the other end chirped: “Surprise!!!!! It’s Mati!” If you’re a long-time follower of my blog you know that Mati is my lifetime friend who moved to the north of Belgium near the Dutch border when she gave up her teaching job in our local primary school to go and work in Antwerp. We’ve known each other since we were three and spent 15 years in the same schools and classrooms. We even spent two summer holidays in Deal together and managed to get our photo in the local paper. I’ve posted about this memorable event here. 

Although we’ve kept in touch since her move north, exchanging Christmas and birthday cards, we hadn’t seen each other since the very early years of the 21^st century … until last night.

I was so surprised and happy to see her that I couldn’t stop hugging her when she walked into the apartment. We nestled ourselves on my big sofa and talked and talked and talked … At first we mainly talked about my upcoming trip …which automatically led to the subject of my blog and my blog friends whom I’m soon to see again or meet for the first time. Later the conversation turned to Mati’s new project, which should lead to the achievement of her lifetime dream … Curious? Sorry, I can’t tell you what it is, because it’s a unique concept and Mati is afraid that someone might steal the idea and use it before she has found the means/sponsor that can help her putting it on the market. All I can say that it has something to do with fashion… 

I also asked her about her children, both in their early thirties now. Apparently Mati’s creativity has rubbed off on them. Her son is a graphic designer. He got married last August and pretty soon Mati will be a grandmother. I’m sure she’ll be very good at it, because as a former teacher she has always been very good and fond of working with children. Her daughter is a professional dancer, who has created and danced some impressive modern performances on different European stages. 

At some point it got really dark and when I switched on the light we realized that it was well over ten o’clock. Mati suggested to pop in at my mother’s to say hello, but I dissuaded her to do so, because my mother was probably already in bed. She was really disappointed, but understood my reasoning.  

It was hard to say goodbye because there was still so much we wanted to share. But Mati had a long drive home ahead of her and she doesn’t like driving in the dark. Luckily the weather was dry and it was a clear evening, without any mist. I hope she got home safely and look forward to seeing her again. 

Mati, if you are reading this, THANK YOU for dropping in. It was fun and I really had a fabulous evening. 

P.S. Blogger is having issues with fonds again. Sorry for the messy lay-out and presentation of this post.

This time in three weeks time …

… we’ll be on our way back to the B&B in Vouvray, after spending the day in Loches; because that’s where the photo in my previous post was taken in 2010.

I put Loches on our travel programme for several reasons. First of all because the medieval town has a lot to offer. There is the old fortified donjon with its 360 steps, gloomy prison, small, yet well-tended and intriguing medieval garden and superb view over the rooftops of Loches. Then there is the ‘Logis Royal’ where renaissance beauty queen Agnès Sorel lived at some point in her short life.

The rooftops of Loches, seen from the balcony of the Logis Royal.

The elegant and pocket-size castle is in real contrast with the rugged old dungeon. Almost like ‘beauty and beast’, an expression that also applies to Agnès’ relationship with Charles VII of France, who – if we are to believe the painted portraits of the man – was in my humble opinion one of the ugliest men I’ve ever seen. Or else the portrait painters weren’t very good at their job! Another highlight of Loches is the Church of Saint-Ours where the lovely Agnès is buried. The ‘gisant’ of white marble on her tomb is a ‘thing of beauty and therefore a joy for ever’ (thank you Mr. Keats!).

I don’t think I'll climb and descend all 360 steps of the donjon this year, because the last time I did in May 2010, I experienced a nagging pain in my left hip and leg. Eight months later the pain had developed into an extremely painful sciatica that scared the hell out of me, because my left leg was partly paralyzed. Impossible to walk stairs or normal distances. I was on sick leave for the whole month of February 2010 and had 12 sessions of physiotherapy before I was able to resume ‘normal service’.

The pretty blue gate on the right.

This time, no donjon or steps for me. I’ll hang around in the medieval garden, weather permitting, to watch the plants growing and to observe the wildlife. Prepare yourself for a lot of photos of flowers, green leaves and bumble bees!

The medieval garden at the foot of the donjon.

The real reason why we are going to Loches has nothing to do with the donjon, the logis and not even the beautiful blue gate that attracts so much attention. No, the real reason is ... friends. After three years, blogger friend Jean and I are finally going to meet. We almost managed a meet and greet last year when I was in the UK. But our carefully scheduled plan fell apart at the minute. This year, however, we intend to be successful. Loches, being halfway between Vouvray, where we will be staying, and Le Grand Pressigny, where Jean and Nick have their holiday home, is the perfect place for us to get together. Jean will book a table for lunch at the ‘Gerbe d’Or’ where my friends and I had a very nice and enjoyable lunch in 2010. This is so exciting ....

An award

Although most of my readers are probably waiting for a sneak preview of the second day of my upcoming Loire Valley trip, I must ask them to be patient. First I want to dedicate a post to my blogger friend Jean from A Very Grand Pressigny and the nice blog award she presented me with: Kreativ Blogger Award (see side column). Jean has four blogs. That’s right: four!! I even have trouble keeping one blog up to date. I don’t know how she manages it: a job, her baking and beading activities and making a nice home for her husband Nick and their dog Lulu. (Sorry Nick, no blog about you ... yet!)

On the second day of our Loire Valley trip
we'll almost certainly see this (photo 2010).

Any idea?

Jean, thank you very much. I really, really appreciate this kind gesture, not to mention the fact that you were my very first follower, way back in May 2009, when I started this blog!  

As Jean explained, the award comes with some ‘obligations/requirements’, which I’ll try to fill in as much as possible. Finding seven bloggers to pass it on to is the first challenge. I’m afraid I’m not entirely ready to meet it. But there are some blog friends who really deserve this special award: 

Chez Charnizay, a blog about living in … southern Touraine; who would have guessed! Antoinette and Niall have lived all over the world (well almost). The fact that they spent several years near Maastricht, a town just across the Belgian border in the Netherlands, almost makes us neighbours. Their blog is an intriguing mixture of everyday life in their little French village, the antics of their kinky cats (Shadow and little Katinka), their travels to meet up with family and friends in places where they used to live in the past and fascinating posts on historical sites in and around their home in France. 

La Petite Presse, by Gaynor, who lives in Staffordshire with her husband, but who also spends part of her time in … southern Touraine. Her blog is always a joy to read and a nice mixture of life in France and England. I thoroughly enjoy it. Gaynor is a thoughtful lady too. When 22 Belgian pupils, 4 teachers and 2 coach drivers were killed in a coach crash in Switzerland in March, Gaynor sent me an email offering her sympathy to the victims’ families and the whole Belgian nation. Coming from someone I’ve never met, this really touched me.

Manners and other Matters, by Louise … whom I appreciate very much. Louise lives in … no, this time you’re wrong … Australia. She’s a very faithful follower and commenter and writes a captivating blog about ‘good manners’ – or the lack of them – in our modern society. We agree on most matters and often think alike. I’m sure that, if we weren’t living on opposite sides of the world – we would be very close friends. Louise showed this ‘complicity’ by offering her sympathy on the above mentioned tragedy. 

Melbourne, our Home on the Bay, by Leon and Sue. We stay on the Australian continent with this blog … although … Leon and Sue are avid France ‘addicts’. They love everything ‘French’ and can’t resist travelling to France. In fact, they’re in France right now, posting a daily report on their travels and experiences. They’ll be in the … Loire Valley soon. Leon and Sue write about France, cooking (Sue is a fantastic cook!), the history of Melbourne (featuring amazing bl/wh photos) and Leon’s passion for cars and cycling. Hence his interest in Belgium, my small country that used to ‘produce’ some cycling champions like Eddy Merckx.

The second requirement is to tell something about myself that you didn’t know yet. 
Well … 

I was ‘thrown’ on stage at the age of three. Luckily I was too young to feel embarrassed. Because, looking back, it was! According to my mother, who was 32 at the time, I was a big hit tough, because the audience couldn’t stop laughing. My ‘moment de gloire’ on stage, however, came when I featured as Snow White in the yearly festival of our gymnastic club.

We’re on our way … almost

With less than a month to go before our trip the Loire Valley and having no news from my friends Mats and Vera, I was beginning to get nervous. Especially after mobilizing the entire Touraine blogger community for lunches, barbecues and drinks. But knowing that Mats has a very busy professional life, I didn’t want to bother him with minor issues, such as our travel plan or the financial arrangements. 

But apparently, great minds think alike … because today I received an email from Mats asking for more information about the program I sent him over a month ago. He was worried that it was too ‘ambitious’. Of course it is! You can’t ‘cram’ 12 years of experience into 6 days, can you? I explained that it was just ‘a program’ and that we would play it by ear once we were on location. That seemed to reassure him. 

Here’s a sneak preview …

Mats and Vera will be arriving in Brussels on Saturday. We’ll have a light supper at my favourite Italian restaurant before they check into a nearby hotel. We’ll make it an early night because I guess they’ll be pretty tired after driving all the way down from Stockholm, where they will have left on Friday morning after attending Mats’ youngest daughter’s graduation. 

On Sunday, they’ll pick me up around 5 a.m. And then we’re off. We’ll take a short stop north of Paris, to have a coffee and a croissant. South of Paris we’ll have a longer stop, enjoying a real breakfast. By 9 a.m. we should be on the road again. And then, sometime between 10.30 and 11 a.m. we should be looking at this splendid scene, Amboise castle seen from the bridge over the Loire River, when you’re driving into Amboise from the north.

June 2008

Our first stop will be the weekly market to get food supplies for our evening picnic. Next there will be drinks at the foot of the castle and a nice Sunday lunch – Loire Valley style. I have selected three restaurants, two of which I’ve already been to and a third that was always very tired-looking in the past, but now has a new chef and a very attractive menu. I think we’ll try that one. 

In the afternoon I hope to – finally – visit the Gardens of Valmer Castle, a location that has been on my 'to-see-list’ since 2009, but never had the time/chance to visit in the past. As this is my third attempt, I'm pretty sure that I’ll make it this time.  

Stay tuned for the rest of the program …

Less than a month to go

This time next month, I’ll be in the Loire Valley; providing my Swedish friends Mats and Vera don’t have a change of mind at the last minute … I sincerely hope not, because I’m so looking forward to this trip and meeting all my blogger friends who live or holiday in the Touraine.

Last night my longing for the Loire Valley was given an extra boost. My former colleague and friend Bea called me with the exciting news that she and her husband Jean-Luc were off to Saint-Aignan this morning. They’ve gone house-hunting again and really hope to close a deal the coming weeks. They have a list of 60 (!!!!) houses to visit, with a shortlist of 12 favourites. They fell in love with the Loire Valley and especially the area around Saint-Aignan when we spent a week together in Vouvray in 2010.

 Saint Aignan's main street in June 2008.

During our stay we visited Ken and Walt and had a fun wine-tasting session at Ken’s neighbour Jean-Noël (aka Jean-No by his friends). Bea and Jean-Luc were really impressed and enjoyed every minute of it. In the evening we had dinner with Ken and Walt at ‘Le Crépiot’. The food and the company were great and Bea and Jean-Luc there and then decided that they wanted to buy a holiday home in the area. They returned to Saint-Aignan in September 2011 and visited several houses, but never had the required ‘coup de coeur’ (crush).

Bea and I agreed to call each other again in two weeks time for a debriefing of their trip. I really hope they find a nice place that fits their requirements. They need at least 3 bedrooms – 4 would be even better – so that their two children and six grandchildren can come and stay whenever they feel like it. And maybe they’ll have room for me too, when the ‘kids’ are not around.

I wish I were a fly, travelling and visiting all these houses with them without actually being in the way or influencing their decision…

‘Un brin de muguet’

Today, May 1st, is not only International Labour Day, it’s also the day on which people in Belgium traditionally give each other a ‘brin de muguet’, a sprig of lily of the valley. The gesture is supposed to bring good luck. In some parts of the country, stalls are set up by the side of the road by people selling small bunches of lilies to passing drivers. Not where I live, so we need to buy them at the florist shop or the supermarket.

I went to the supermarket yesterday to get some lilies for my mother. They come by two sprigs, pre-packed with a small rose or freesia in a sheet of cellophane paper. And they are expensive: 2.50 euro for the freesia version and 2.99 euro for the rose version I bought one of each! Sheer robbery, but somehow justified by the fact that the lilies are grown in greenhouses that need to be heated using precious fuel.

Two sprigs of lily of the valley and a freesia.

At first I wanted to keep the flowers till this morning, but by late afternoon yesterday, I noticed that the sprigs were already dropping their heads, despite the fact that they are sold in a test tube-like container filled with water. I therefore went over to my mother’s and presented her with her annual ‘brin the muguet’. A wise decision it turned out to be, because this morning my specimen had partially turned brown and the sprigs had shrunk to half their initial size. A waste of money? Maybe, but nevertheless a nice tradition supporting the idea: ‘Le plaisir d’offrir!’

Do you give your loved-ones a lily of the valley on May 1^st?